I have been following Rocco DiSpirito’s career for a while.
I remember a Tindle event where he served the most insane vegetarian chicken parm I have ever had. Coming from a guy like me, someone who considers a salad a tragedy and a vegetable a garnish, that is not a sentence I say lightly. The man knows how to cook. So when Bar Rocco opened inside the Kimpton Era hotel on 48th Street, I was genuinely excited to check it out.
Worth the wait.
The Space
Bar Rocco is on the second floor of the hotel and the room has that perfect 70s and 80s lounge energy without going too far into theme park territory. Red couches, a little chrome here and there, warm lighting, good decor. For a hotel restaurant, it has real personality. The kind of room that makes you want to stay for another round rather than rush out the door.
The Staff
Our waiter was one of the better ones I have had in a while. A soccer player with an incredible knowledge of the menu and the kind of personality that keeps the whole table engaged. He knew every dish, gave great recommendations without being pushy, kept the pace exactly right, and made sure everyone felt taken care of without hovering. I try to avoid Times Square like the plague but he made a few suggestions I would not have considered otherwise.
That is what great service looks like. The food is important but a server like that elevates the whole experience.
The Drinks
We had the espresso martini and a classic martini with a sidecar. Both pretty good. Solid cocktail program without being anything that required a lengthy explanation. The real drink story comes at the end with dessert.
The Little Gem Caesar Salad
Pretty good with one caveat.
The little gem lettuce pulled a bitter one. Look, that happens. Anyone who has ever grabbed a head of little gem at the grocery store knows you do not always win that lottery. I am not holding that against the chef. That is just the nature of the ingredient and we have all been there. Not a knock on the kitchen.
The cabbage element was also a little overpowering for my taste. The anchovy situation is real here so consider that a warning if you are not an anchovy person. I am an anchovy person so that part was fine.
The standout was the prosciutto or lard crisp on top. A thin, paper-crispy piece of porky goodness sitting on the salad like it owned the place. Whatever that was, it was absolutely phenomenal. That sweetness, that bacon-adjacent fat, that crunch. I could eat that by itself and be happy.
Would I order the Caesar again? Yes. The bitter lettuce is a produce issue not a restaurant issue and that crisp earns it a return order every time.
The Sunday Gravy Lasagna
Pretty good but timing is everything with this one.
Heavy, cheesy, loaded with meat, and deeply satisfying in the way that only a proper Sunday gravy lasagna can be. In the winter this would be a ten out of ten, exactly what you want when it is cold outside and you need something that feels like a hug from an Italian grandmother.
At 90 degrees in June we did not finish it. That is not a criticism of the dish. That is a calendar problem. Come back in October and order this. You will thank me.
The Pappardelle Genovese
My buddy ordered this one and I had to try it.
Rich, creamy, and the short rib meat was incredibly soft. Just a great pasta dish. If you are going in warmer weather and want pasta this is the move over the lasagna. Lighter feel, deep flavor, and the kind of dish that makes you wish you had ordered it as your main instead of just stealing bites.
The Steak and Frites: Pat LaFrieda Prime NY Strip
Here is where I have to be honest with Rocco.
I hold this man in extremely high regard after that Tindle chicken parm. That is a level of respect that is hard to earn from me. And the fries were genuinely insane. Crispy, perfectly seasoned, and some of the better fries I have had this year.
But the NY strip did not blow me away the way I expected it to. Nothing wrong with it. Cooked correctly, good quality meat, no real complaints. I just had a specific expectation going in based on everything I know about this chef and this restaurant and the steak landed at good rather than great. Sometimes you set the bar too high and the dish pays for it. That might be on me more than the kitchen.
I will be back in cooler weather to try the burger. That is the one I really want to evaluate.
Dessert: The Real Story
Our waiter comped two desserts, which tells you everything you need to know about the service.
The cheesecake was exactly right. Not too sweet, little compote on the side, perfectly balanced. The kind of cheesecake that does not make you feel like you made a mistake ordering it.
The tiramisu with Fernet poured over it was outstanding. I am not always a Fernet person. As a digestif after a big meal though it hits exactly the right spot. The Fernet cuts through everything, cleans the palate, and sends you out the door feeling like you made all the right decisions. I would order this again without hesitation. Definitely, definitely, definitely.
Final Verdict
Bar Rocco is a genuinely good restaurant that gets better in cooler weather. The pappardelle is the pasta to order in summer, the lasagna is the pasta to order in winter, the fries are non-negotiable, the tiramisu with Fernet is the way to end the meal, and Rocco DiSpirito has earned his way back into the NYC conversation.
The steak did not reach the level I expected but everything else delivered. I will be back when the temperature drops to try the burger and see how the steak frites hits when I am not comparing it to a man who once served me the greatest vegetarian chicken parm of my life.
High bar, Rocco. You set it yourself.
As always, what do I know? I am just a fat guy from Brooklyn trying to survive the week, one martini at a time.
Looking for more NYC restaurant reviews? Check out my Best Steakhouses in NYC, Best Burgers in NYC, and Best Restaurants in NYC lists.