I wanted one last pure seafood meal.
Not a steakhouse with a seafood option. Not a pasta place with a shrimp appetizer. Pure seafood. Oysters, chowder, the whole situation. I had been eating my way through San Francisco for days, and my body was sending very clear signals that it wanted something from the ocean.
Richard recommended Billingsgate, and I trusted him immediately.
The place I actually wanted to go first was cash only and packed with tourists. I do not carry enough cash to feel comfortable at a seafood restaurant and I was not going to find an ATM in San Francisco just to spend it on oysters. So Billingsgate it was.
Best pivot of the trip.
What Billingsgate Is
Billingsgate started as a wholesale seafood operation and opened a retail location at 3859 24th Street in the Mission. Which means everything coming out of that kitchen is as fresh as it gets. No middleman. No three day old fish sitting in a case. The product quality shows in every single bite.
They close by 7 PM because they are a retail operation not a restaurant doing dinner service. Get there early. Do not show up at 6:45 expecting a full evening.
Round One
We ordered two rounds and I want to be very clear that this was Richard’s fault for suggesting a place with food this good.
The first round was the wild scallop ceviche, half a dozen oysters, and the clam chowder.
The wild scallop ceviche was exactly what you want from a place that sources its own product. Fresh, clean, simple, and the kind of dish that reminds you how good seafood tastes when nobody messes with it too much.
The West Coast oysters were insanely fresh. Briny, cold, perfect. West Coast oysters have a different character than East Coast and these were a great example of why. Nothing to complain about here.
Now. The clam chowder.
I need you to read the following sentence carefully and in your best northeastern Massachusetts accent because that is the only way to do this justice.
This was old school New England clam chowder. Not the watered down tourist version. Not the thin stuff you get at an airport. This was thick, full flavored, loaded with clams, with little bits of bacon floating in it that had no business being that good. I was expecting something lighter given the West Coast health-conscious food culture. I was completely wrong. This chowder was everything a chowder should be and I am still thinking about it weeks later.
Order it. Non-negotiable.
Round Two
Seafood never fills me up. This is a known problem and I have accepted it as a character trait.
Round two was the Spanish tortilla with tomato toast and sliced jamón ibérico, the Spanish octopus carpaccio, and the hamachi crudo.
The Spanish tortilla with tomato toast and jamón ibérico was exactly right. Classic combination, beautifully executed. The ibérico adds that nutty, silky fat that makes everything around it taste better.
The Spanish octopus carpaccio was the surprise of the second round. Paper thin, delicate, with citrus and something that made every piece of fish pop with flavor. Light, airy, and spectacular. This is the kind of dish that sounds simple on a menu and then completely earns its place on the table.
The hamachi crudo held its own alongside the carpaccio. Clean fish, good acid balance, nothing to complain about.
The One Regret
I wanted to be outside. On the water. White wine in hand, breeze in my hair, doing my best impression of someone who has their life together.
Billingsgate does not have waterfront seating because it is a retail operation in the Mission. This is not their fault. This is my fault for having cinematic expectations about seafood dining in San Francisco.
Everything was still perfect. I just wanted the ocean breeze to go with it.
Final Verdict
Billingsgate is the kind of place that only works because the product is exceptional. No gimmicks, no fancy presentations that distract from the fish, just incredibly fresh seafood prepared correctly.
The clam chowder alone is worth the trip. The octopus carpaccio is the move for the second order. And the oysters are exactly what West Coast oysters should be.
Get there before 7 PM. Go with someone. Order two rounds. Do not skip the chowder.
Last stop before the airport was Goldenette for one final meal.
As always, what do I know? I am just a fat guy from Brooklyn trying to survive the week, one martini at a time.
Looking for more NYC restaurant reviews? Check out my Best Steakhouses in NYC, Best Burgers in NYC, and Best Restaurants in NYC lists.